tokyo tasting: a gluten free guide to traveling and eating out in tokyo

Having celiac is not easy, and having it in a country that does not really recognize it as an issue makes for an interesting situation. I definitely feel lucky that we figured all of this out while living in a country where the people are extremely helpful and accommodating, but it doesn't help things that most Japanese have never heard of "celiac" or "gluten" and have no idea which foods contain the ingredients I need to avoid. Explaining a "wheat allergy" is simply not enough, since there is hidden gluten in just about everything here.

It's taken a while, but we have finally figured out our "system" here at home. Traveling, though, has been a different story. We originally transferred to Japan so we would be able to travel, experience cultures, and see the world. These were easy to accomplish pre-celiac, but they have become incredibly difficult now. When we travel these days, 2/3 of our baggage contains food in case we can't find restaurants that will serve me (this has happened - while it's frustrating, I'd rather they tell me up front they can't serve me than to serve me food that will make me sick).

On our first trip to Tokyo, I really enjoyed the city but didn't plan to visit again. It was too big, and there were too many people. We added other Japanese cities to our list of places to visit, not envisioning a return to Tokyo in the near future.

Then, celiac happened.

Our first post-diagnosis visit to Tokyo was very different than our previous time. Ben's parents were coming to visit and we had plans to join them in Tokyo for a week before traveling with them back up to Aomori. This trip, I had to research EVERYTHING ahead of time. Our schedules and destinations revolved around the few "safe" restaurants I had researched. The time leading up to our departure was full of anxiety, as there were not many resources and blogs out there to help. Those that did exist gave conflicting information. (Examples include whether plain combini onigiri or senbei are always safe bets... FYI, they're not.) Looking back, though, our trip wasn't half bad! We found a few restaurants that were able to accommodate my dietary restrictions, and even one that specifically had fluent English-speakers to help in situations like mine. The city has become one of my "safe places" and we are always excited to travel there now. We have since visited Tokyo multiple times, and continue to go back to our tried-and-true favorite places.

Sadly, some of these restaurants are no longer open. A few are, though, and I wanted to make sure to write about them in case this information can help anyone traveling to Tokyo with celiac disease or gluten intolerance.  I am extremely sensitive to cross contamination, and have never gotten sick at the following restaurants.

The first restaurant I'd highly recommend is Gonpachi. I have visited several locations of this Tokyo restaurant, and haven't gotten sick at any of them, but my favorite is the one in Nishi Azabu. I have written about this place before, but didn't really go into much detail about their allergy protocols. I was a baby celiac at that point, and I've learned that I was doing so much incorrectly at that point. I have, however, been back to this restaurant several times since, and have still had wonderful experiences every time.

While Gonpachi is an izakaya style restaurant, they use very good quality meats and vegetables in their cooking. Their noodles (which aren't gluten free) are made by hand each day, and they try to source from local farms. I won't eat at most izakaya style restaurants, but this one is my exception because of these reasons. Another reason is that Gonpachi Nishi Azabu has an "allergy specialist" to help people like me figure out what they can eat safely.

At the time of the writing of this blog, Gonapchi Nishi Azabu's allergy specialist is named Teresa. She is fabulous to work with and we always check before heading to Tokyo to ensure she will be working when we visit. Teresa speaks English and is well-versed in finding foods that are safe for those with allergies. She is willing to go back and forth between the customer and the chefs to ensure that the correct ingredients and protocols are taken to keep someone from getting contaminated.

If you go, make sure you ask her to remind the cooking staff to clean the surfaces before cooking your food.

Here are a few of my favorite things off the menu:

• Asparagus wrapped in bacon. This is quintessential izakaya food if you eat pork. So delicious!
• Rice bowl. Gonpachi has a few rice bowls, but none of them (as they are on the menu) are safe for someone who is very sensitive. They will, however, make one for you that is, as long as you let them know exactly what you need! I get a modified "takana meshi" - without the pickled mustard leaves and with an addition of grilled chicken and fresh avocado. They bring out all the seaweed and spices separately, so I can see exactly what will go into my bowl before it's done. I mix it up and add my safe soy sauce myself, and it's delicious!
• Gyutan. I love beef tongue when it's done right, and it's definitely done right here. I ask for the gyutan without the sesame oil, as I have not been able to confirm that it's safe. I just use my safe soy sauce for dipping instead.
• Chicken on a skewer. I'm not sure that this one is on the menu by itself, but they've never had an issue with making it for me. I love yakitori and rarely get to order it, because it's so difficult to find restaurants with safe cooking practices in terms of cross contamination! I order it shiodake (with salt only) and then use my soy sauce.
• Yuzu Lime Iced Tea. I look forward to coming to Gonpachi for the yuzu tea more than anything else, especially in the summer. It's so delicious! The first post-celiac time we visited Gonpachi, I was very nervous about trying this again. Even with my corn allergy on top of everything, I did not get sick at all.

All in all, Gonpachi is definitely worth a visit!

My other favorite restaurant in Tokyo is Moti. This is an Indian restaurant near Roppongi Station. The owner speaks some English and while he doesn't know much about gluten or celiac, he is very willing to go over all ingredients with you. I can't say I've branched out as far as the menu goes, because the butter chicken curry is so good that I get it every time.

We have visited every six months or so, and the owners always remember us when we walk in. Just make sure you check every ingredient and let the owners know what you're avoiding so they can check it. Also, ask for rice instead of the naan and you'll be good to go. They have offered sticky rice in the past, so you will need to make sure you opt for plain rice (the sticky rice is not safe).

I hope this is able to help you as you navigate your way through Tokyo! Let me know if you have any great gluten free experiences at either of these (or any other) restaurants in Tokyo!

gonpachi and allons-y!

It's been dreary and wintry over the last few weeks, so I've been looking back at vacation pictures, wistfully dreaming of warmer (and snow-less) days. I realized today that I never blogged about our Tokyo Thanksgiving trip...so here we go!


Ben and I have some friends who also teach in Japan - we met them while living in California and we always see each other when we all go home to visit family and friends. Last summer, we agreed that the next time we saw each other needed to be in Japan. We decided to meet in near the middle, in Tokyo, for Thanksgiving.

As per the usual, we took the overnight bus and arrived in Tokyo around 6 am. Now that we are seasoned Tokyo veterans (three times brings us to expert status, right?) we had no problem traveling through Shinjuku Station with our luggage and making our way through the various metro lines to get to Nogizaka, the closest station to our hotel. It felt like decades ago that we had made our first trip to Tokyo, marveling at the sheer size of Shinjuku and the tens of thousands of people making their ways through the busiest train station in the world. This time, it was just the first station of many to go through on our first day.

Out of the 50 busiest train stations in the world, 44 of them
are in Japan, with Shinjuku being the busiest.

Once we made our way across the city and settled into our hotel, we visited Roppongi to see all the Christmas decorations. We had heard Roppongi was home to some amazing decorations and the famed Illuminations.

You might remember the spider from previous photos...

After taking in the sights, we headed to Arisugawa Park to meet our friends. We enjoyed a nice stroll through the park, photographing the autumn leaves and catching up. Then we made our way to Gonpachi, my favorite Izakaya restaurant. The food was amazing, as always, and we were happy to see that our friend Teresa still worked there.

The more times we visit this park, the more I think it's
become my favorite spot in Tokyo...

I'm always captivated by the architecture of this
building. It was especially beautiful with the sunlight
streaming in through the windows!

After our meal, we proceeded to Harajuku to visit Meiji-jingu, a Shinto shrine named after Emperor Meiji. It was quite lovely, though the wall of sake barrels was my favorite part of the experience. Well, that and the Allons-y shop we spotted on our way back to the train station! (Finding a Doctor Who reference in Japan is no easy task...but more on that later.)

Torii Gate entrance to the shrine complex

Kazaridaru, or decorational sake barrels, outside Meiji Shrine

Gateway to the courtyard

Meiji Shrine with the Docomo Building in the background

"There's an old Earth saying, Captain. A phrase of great power and wisdom and
consolation to the soul in times of need. Allons-y!" 

Exhausted, we all headed back to our hotels to try and get some shut-eye before our early morning trek to Disneyland!

tokyo bound...again

We got to visit Tokyo again! This is exciting, because the three days we spent in this glorious city in March just weren't enough to see and do even a fraction of what Tokyo has to offer. Not only did we get to visit again, but this time, we'd get to do it with family!

Cliff and Naomi were slated to arrive at Narita Airport in the late afternoon, so we planned to arrive in the morning via the Willer Express. After arriving at Tokyo Station, we deposited our luggage at a locker and headed for the nearest (you guessed it) Starbucks. I still find it amusing that we rarely visited Starbucks when we lived in the states, but now it's a commodity we get a little too excited about!

While trekking to coffee heaven, we made the realization that Tokyo Station is MUCH easier to navigate than the craziness of Shinjuku! After drinking a gluten-free-soy-mocha-frappuccino, I was ready to hit the streets. 

We headed first to the Imperial Palace. We were a bit disappointed, as everybody says one of the top ten things to do in Tokyo is to visit this place. We had heard there was a spectacular garden, but if there was one we never did see it.

The palace grounds are surrounded by two moats. Inside the outer moat is a tree-filled grassy area reminiscent of the reflecting pool in Washington DC. It was a beautiful place to have a picnic or take a stroll.

The actual castle lies inside the inner moat. It's difficult to see and is heavily guarded, since the emperor resides there to this day. The detail on the visitor's side of the moat, though, was easy to see and was made up of beautiful detail. The entrance bridge was beautifully reflected in the moat's water, and the filigreed fences surrounding the moat were exquisite.

All in all, we enjoyed visiting the palace, but wouldn't go so far as to call it one of Tokyo's "top ten places to see."

After the Imperial Palace was one of the places I was most excited about. You see, I have a thing for themed restaurants or restaurants that have a great background or story behind them. Our lunch destination was one such place: Gonpachi.

For those of you who have seen Kill Bill, you will recognize Gonpachi as the inspiration for "the House of Blue Leaves," where the Crazy 88 have their epic fight scene.

I figured if the real deal had any type of architecture close to its fictitious rendition, we'd be happy we visited. Boy, were we right! We traveled to Nishi-Azabu, a sub-neighborhood in Roppongi. Upon stepping in, we could immediately see why Tarantino was inspired by this place. Rather than try and explain its awesomeness, I'll show you:

In the midst of this awesomeness, I was a bit concerned because this would be the first time I had eaten out since going gluten free. I was anxious about getting sick and had found some great advice on how to communicate my food allergy issues in Japanese.

I did so, and amazingly enough, we were given a server who not only spoke English fluently, but had spent part of her life near Sacramento. Teresa not only took the time to run every item I considered ordering by her manager to check for potential allergens, but we enjoyed talking about our time in Northern California.

The food was a bit pricey, but delicious, and we ended up really enjoying ourselves. (I will post another blog about all the gluten-free meals I found in Tokyo, as there are startlingly few blogs devoted to this for Celiacs traveling to this city.)

After Gonpachi, we checked Arisugawa Park (a beautiful and underrated getaway in the midst of the city's chaos) and then rode the subway back to Tokyo Station, where we met up with the newly arrived Cliff and Naomi. As all of us were exhausted, we headed back to the hotel to unpack and get ready for the next day.

The rooms at the Monterey la Soeur were tiny, but this was Tokyo and we were exhausted!